Connecting the Inverter to Our DIY Off Grid RV Solar Power System


Today, I’m sharing how we wired our Sunforce 2500 watt pure sine wave inverter to our DIY off grid rv solar power system to get AC power while full time RV living.
SUBSCRIBE to Duet Justus for more videos →

Featured Products:

Sunforce 2500 watt pure sine wave inverter →
Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 TriStar 60A MPPT charge controller →
DC charger for Macbook Pro →
DC to DC splitter →

Products we use + love! →


Want to help us for FREE? Shop through our Amazon link →


Facebook →
Instagram →
Twitter →




Hi! We are Michael + Jenny Justus. We post videos on our life of alternative + sustainable + healthy living. Our desire to live a more meaningful life led us to concoct a crazy plan: Downsize our belongings, ditch the “9-5,” and move full-time into a solar-powered, self-sustainable tiny home on wheels with our two dogs, Chase + Roni. Taking this leap into the unknown has completely transformed our future, so be sure to hit that SUBSCRIBE button, join the Justus League, and follow along to see where the journey take us!



Canon 70d (body only) →
Canon 70d Vlogger Kit →
Takstar SGC-598 shotgun MIC →
Windscreen →
Ravelli tripod →
Dolica Monopod →
LimoStudio Soft Box Lighting Kit →
LanParte 3-Axis Motorized Gimbal →



Music by Joakim Karud


39 replies
  1. Duet Justus
    Duet Justus says:

    Hope you all enjoyed the video! Leave a comment down below if you’d like me to do a video on different ways to tie in an inverter to your RV. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you all in the comments 🔆😎🔆

  2. Beto Beto
    Beto Beto says:

    Any system that working is a great system. Thank you for the load of information you help others with! Question having the inverter in the leaving space is the noise noticeable and does it give out any heat?

  3. Julio Ramirez
    Julio Ramirez says:

    The green wire that comes from the inverter, does that go to the negative of the shunt?. And also do the negative wires from the solar panels and DC load from the MPPT solar charge controller go straight to the shunt aswell?.

  4. John Douglas
    John Douglas says:

    if you want a high output continuous unit, look at lantronics, Australian made and serious kit, and a price tag to match (for a reason)
    of course, this makes it difficult for overseas warranty and service.
    there's also SMA which are rated tier one for both grid connect and offgrid units.
    but again, VERY expensive. but for a reason. but get what you pay for.

  5. ChileExpatFamily
    ChileExpatFamily says:

    Very nice explanation…………
    Being married my self, Oh I bet you made some real good points when you said your wife regularly uses the hair dryer like all the time. Ha hahahahah!
    Don't worry after a few more years of marriage you will get the hang of it. Jim

  6. Gift
    Gift says:

    I've gotta say, man, you are the real deal. A lot of people on this subject or YouTube in general, waste a lot of our time, but you on the other hand, you get straight to the point and you speak about relevant stuff (relative to the heading) than tell us about how your new bedsheet are comfortable on a video about battery or solar. Keep up the good work brother.

  7. OldJohnT102347
    OldJohnT102347 says:

    INVERTER CABLESIf your Inverter were loaded to its 2500 Watt capacity, at 12 volts you would be drawing something like 200 amps plus a bit more due to inefficiency and heat losses. HOWEVER your cables from your battery bank to your inverter do not appear (based on picture only so cant be sure) to  have that much ampacity. In addition smaller cables means more energy robbing I Squared R  heat losses and voltage drop SO MY ADVICE IS TO UPGRADE THOSE CABLES. Sure, it will still "work" as is if you don't max out your Inverter loads, but I still have to go on record as advising you insure the cables have sufficient ampacity and you don't have excess voltage drop. Likewise the cable that feeds 12 VDC to your fuse distribution panel for all the RV interior loads appears ???? small. I would have that something like a 100 amp properly fused circuit.On this or your Solar Grounding Video I noticed a few other issues you may or may not already be aware of so strictly FYI You discussed fuses and if I designed your system I would FUSE THE INVERTER SEPARATELY FROM YOUR OTHER LOADS. That fuse needs located at the battery energy source and is sized to match the ampacity of cables and loads (like the 200 amps discussed above) you end up using. I would place the RV 12 VDC distribution panel loads on their own separate fuse and circuit.That rear battery I assume is for the GENERATOR ONLY correct?? I would IN NO WAY ever have it wired in parallel with your house battery bank for numerous reasons I don't need to go into here. It may be fine to start the genset provided you have a way to keep it charged. JUST DONT HAVE IT IN PARALELL WITH YOUR HOUSE BATTERY BANK !!! You mentioned the rear genset battery is wired to the engine alternator so it can be charged when driving. That's fine and was likely original   HOWEVER there's usually an ISOLATION RELAY in that circuit which connects the rear battery to the engine battery ONLY when the engine is running.   It looks like you have around 450 Amp Hours of battery energy storage capacity (Four Trojans right??) If so if you start using high current Inverter fed devices like a hair dryer or microwave or crock pot etc. for very long YOU REALY SUCK A LOT OF ENERGY FROM THOSE BATTERIES AND QUICK !!!!!! Sure it can "work" but you may want to consider short term genset use for high current loads. Its best NOT to discharge your batteries to over 50% SOC  and long use of the devices above will get you there very quick. A 120 VAC 10 amp load (1200 watts like a heater or hair dryer or crock pot)  draws around 100+ amps form the batteries THATS A LOT. NOTE as far as how your four battery series parallel connection is wired, be sure and take a look here IT MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE   as far as load and charging balance among all four batteries is concerned. If not wired correct the batteries don't all work and charge the same !!! Great videos I enjoy them thank you very much. This is ONLY one mans opinion you can take or leave. Best wishes keep safe and God BlessJohn T   Retired Electrical Engineer, 47 year continuous RV user and past dealer

  8. Bad Santa
    Bad Santa says:

    Inverters and battery chargers (actually most things electrical) are definitely "get what you pay for items". Good gear is expensive but will perform and last for many years. I personally opted for midrange gear but if I had my time again (or when replacing) I would get top end gear. Thanks for video, good info.

  9. wizardorlegend
    wizardorlegend says:

    Michael thank you, I’ve been waiting for this video for years. Someone finally agrees with me small electrics power and charge straight from 12v.

    I don’t understand why anyone still wants to convert from 12v dc to 240v ac to usb 5v dc.

    I’ve been trying to get this through to people for years, if you can get a 12v dc adapter for the kit use it. I’ve even seen other channels recommend those 100watt inverters to plug into the lighter socket so they can plug there phone chargers into that. I shake my head at the videos all the time.

    I will be point people to this video in future as you explain it extremely well.

    I look at it this way, with my set up
    For every 100ah I use out of my batteries to charge stuff up off 12v, 12 of those amp hours are wasted.
    For every 100ah I use out of my batteries to charge stuff up off 240v, 35 of those amp hours are wasted.

    Plus it has the effect of, you might not need a pure sine wave inverter if all the expensive stuff is run off 12v then you might only need a modified sine wave and not a very big one. Our travel trailer (caravan if your British) came with a 2200watt modified sine wave inverter, after I converted all the lights to energy saving or led bulbs, threw the microwave away, bought a rechargeable vacuum cleaner and an led tv we can run everything off a 300watt inverter.

    Thank you so much for the video, take car and safe travels.

  10. MrMeanderthal
    MrMeanderthal says:

    Ive been using inverters for many years and have purchased the best RV type inverter there is.. it is Magnum Energy model MSH3012M it is 3000 watt / 12 volt..there is also MSH4024M (4000 watt 24 volt) it's battery charger and inverter.. the H of MSH is Hybrid.. they are practically the most expensive inverter/chargers there is but are amazing as hybrid operation.. it's very difficult to explain so I post link to Magnum Energy so you can read about the 'hybrid' part that is different and a HUGE bonus from practically every other inverter/charger there is..

  11. Asher Stanton
    Asher Stanton says:

    What was your work around? And yes, I’d like to see the video you talked about doing and specifically why you didn’t wire it into your existing AC system in the RV. Unless of course you didn’t have enough AC outlets etc. Otherwise another good video.

  12. Richard M
    Richard M says:

    The cable from the inverter to the battery and shunt looks like it’s only around 4AWG or maybe 2 AWG. At full load the draw is around 200amps and the voltage drop for 4 AWG cables is around 0.1vdc/foot or around 1 vdc for that run (assuming 2×4’). But since it sounds like you don’t load the inverter much it’s probably not really an issue. I run kitchen appliances off of our setup (same size batteries) and ended up making my own 2/0 AWG cables to handle the current with minimal voltage drop. This is a great series that you put together and an excellent example of not needing to spend a small fortune on solar. Something that I keep hearing over and over. Keep the videos coming!


Leave a Reply

Want to join the discussion?
Feel free to contribute!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *